From Kaštel Stari, Split is a day out that needs very little planning. Even so, many guests find the city more tiring than it needs to be: arriving at midday, in the middle of the cruise groups, with no shade. With the right order it's a lovely day. This is how we do it ourselves when friends visit.
Getting there: train, not car
From Kaštel Stari station the train takes about 10 to 15 minutes to Split. Split station is on the harbour, a few minutes' walk from the palace. Alternatively, city bus 37 runs between Trogir and Split through Kaštela, or you can take an Uber. Driving into the centre is rarely worth it; why is explained in Car hire and parking around Split.
Morning: the palace while it's quiet
Diocletian's Palace was built around the year 300 as the Roman emperor's retirement home, and today it isn't a ruin but a neighbourhood. People live inside it; there are cafés, shops and washing lines strung between Roman walls. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.
Get to the Peristyle, the central square, before nine and you'll have it almost to yourself. Then:
- St Domnius Cathedral and its bell tower. The stairs are steep and narrow, but the view over the rooftops to the islands is worth it.
- The Temple of Jupiter right next door, small and quick to see.
- The cellars beneath the palace, for fans the throne room from Game of Thrones. More in Game of Thrones filming locations around Kaštela.
Late morning: the markets
The fruit and veg market, the Pazar, is right on the east side of the palace. It's busiest in the morning and packs up around midday. The fish market, the Peškarija, is a few streets to the west and is also a morning market. If you want to barbecue at the villa in the evening, this is where to shop.
Midday: get out of the heat
Between twelve and four the old town is at its fullest and hottest. Two good escapes:
- Marjan: from the Varoš neighbourhood, steps lead up to the Vidilica viewpoint, about 15 to 20 minutes on foot. At the top there's shade under the pines and a café looking over the city.
- The beach: Bačvice is the city beach, with shallow water and an easy walk from the harbour. Locals play picigin here, a ball game in knee-deep water. The coves around Marjan, such as Kašjuni, are quieter.
Evening: the Riva
As the sun drops, the Riva promenade fills up. This is when the old town is at its best: the stones give off the day's warmth and people eat out in the lanes. Our restaurant tips are in Restaurants in Split, Trogir and Kaštela.
Head back by train, Uber or, in summer, by boat across the bay. Timetables change every year, so we'll tell you on the spot what's running.
Three things worth knowing
- Don't walk around the old town in swimwear or shirtless. Split fines people for it.
- The polished limestone is slippery, especially when wet. Shoes with some grip beat flip-flops.
- Bring water. The tap water is safe to drink, so a refillable bottle saves money and plastic.
If you'd like to see Split often but sleep somewhere quiet, you're in the right place with us. More on our page villa near Split old town.
